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Meet Kevin Mark Pass – fashion photographer

September 1st, 2010 by Daryl Glass

Self Portrait

Kevin was born and raised in Johannesburg in the early 80s. He matriculated in 1999 from Sir Pierre Van Ryneveld High School and was soon bitten by the travel bug. Kevin spent a few years doing volunteer work in Brazil, studying in England and exploring Europe, USA, New Zealand and Australia. By 2006 he was back home and with a promising career of photography already established, bought his first home and studio. In 2007 Kevin held his first exhibition which showcased a collection of black and whites at the Salvation Café.

Reeva - from "The white female in 2010, through the lens of Kevin Mark Pass"

When did you take that first shot and think “WOW, this is what I should be doing”?

It was a combination of things really, but one of the major factors was visiting my cousin in Australia – allow me to explain – I used to buy a black and white roll of film and click what I saw at weddings, then my gift to the bride and groom would simply to give them the roll of film and be done with it (never having seen what I had taken) This is what had happened with my cousin. A few years after his wedding I went to visit him and the house was literally wall to wall with enlargements of the photos I had taken. None from the actual wedding photographer. I was quite floored by that and my brain started to tick over that it might be something to consider.

Do you have a favorite lens… If so what is it?

An old fixed 85mm – simply magic (I don’t use it nearly enough anymore) but practically, I guess my 80-200/2,8 is the one I shoot with most of the time.

What is the least favourite part of your job?

All the alone time. More than half my working hours is spent at the computer; emailing, scheduling, quoting, invoicing, writing cd’s, selecting, backing-up and of course Photoshopping. Anyone want to sponsor me CS5?

Cindy Nell - from "The white female in 2010, through the lens of Kevin Mark Pass"

Would you give a brief walk through your work flow?

After finishing a shoot I start downloading the memory card into an (insanely) organised folder system before I’ve even walked the customer to the door. From there the shoot goes through two or three passes of selection to get to the best images (unless it’s commercial work in which case the magazine or advertising agency who will choose for themselves). Then I load them into Photoshop and try breathe life into the images – if it isn’t shouting and grabbing attention already.

Are you a self taught photographer or did you have a mentor/formal training that showed you the ropes?

I’m self-taught (unless a couple afternoons with 2 or 3 photographers 10 years ago counts).

Kerryn - from "The white female in 2010, through the lens of Kevin Mark Pass"

How do you decide on locations & subjects?

It really is spur of the moment. I mostly only choose styling and makeup once I’ve seen the model, and choose location once I’ve seen the model in makeup and correct clothing, then only choose light and pose once the model is on location. Having said that, the biggest factor in choosing the location is the light. I shoot mostly natural light.

If it was feasible these days, would you shoot on film or stick to digital?

I don’t think I could go back – I would love to think I could (I’m sure I could ) but I’m too far involved in the flow and process of digital. Plus the cameras have caught up I’m sure.

Have you had any cringe moments, any major fluff ups?

I fell down a couple stairs (trying to be cool of course) and broke the fall with my face and a 12 hour old camera just minutes before starting the biggest shoot of my life (at the time). It’s a good thing Nikon makes strong cameras and my guardian angels were attentive. Minutes later I started the shoot and all was fine – but in mid air I do remember thinking some very dark dismal thoughts.

Candice - Bijoux Guesthouse, Bloubergstrand

How important is Photoshop in your work and what do you think is a healthy balance, is it cheating?

I think I have a good balance. Some of my work needs a Photoshop “scrub” but more than half it could go on display straight out of the camera – like my latest shot: Vogue inspired shot of Candice last week in Cape Town. There are no colour or effects used – simply hiding a doorway which took 2 minutes. Surely that’s not cheating? (Note: I didn’t put a smiley face on the end of this answer)

One question I think most people are talking about is the current lobbying (not in SA) for all photoshopped images to be identified by an icon or clause. What are your thoughts on this?

Hmmm… nah… or wait! Not the Photoshopping I do (which is very self righteous to say - but I’ll expand). I simply remove a zit, lessen a wrinkle, sharpen an eye, nullify an annoying object in the background, brighten or desaturate. However, when people start messing with the shape of the models faces/eyes/nose/jaw/waistline etc, then yes, I think I do agree. I have my own problems with that type of Photoshop plastic surgery too; my clients (or people who wanted to hire me and didn’t like my stand on that idea) can attest to that. My theory is this: if you want a model to look a certain way then hire one that does. Simple as that!

Everyone with Photoshop thinks they are a great photographer, help me dispel this horrible myth.

With pleasure. A great photographer (which I hope and pray to be one day) is someone who is masterful in his/her understanding and manipulation of light. He/she has deep understanding of his/her genre, be it people, building or still lifes, and has passionately studied that subject, this is how the best angles and timing come naturally to them. None of these things I believe can be taught. (I’d like to be quoted on that one day)

In general, during a session, how many pics would you say you take to find “the perfect one”?

10? That’s a thumb suck. Sometimes it’s more, sometimes less. I guess it depends on the models professionalism.

How do you keep your eye fresh and mind inspired?

I truly believe that I am only as good as my last photo, and I really want to be remembered as good, so I can never be sure as which click will be my final one here on earth, so I drive myself to try make it the best one I am able.

Shinnai - from "The white female in 2010, through the lens of Kevin Mark Pass"

Is being a fashion photographer as glamorous as people think?

No, not even close! But I still like it

Where has you career travels taken you?

All over the world. But I won’t rest until it takes me to Europe to shoot someone famous and for a substantial publication such as Vogue or for a perfume campaign or something.

How important is it for a photographer to be able to work with the model, the stylist, the lighting etc to make the photograph perfect?

It’s almost everything if you want to have a perfect photo. If mediocre is your thing, then treat the model badly and make the makeup and styling someone else’s concern. Couple that with average lighting and that’s what you’ll have – a whole bunch of average.

Tayla from "The white female in 2010, through the lens of Kevin Mark Pass"

What would be your dream shoot?

Vogue or Guess or a big perfume campaign

Where to next?

I don’t get too far ahead of myself. I am going to keep doing what I do, try to increase my understanding of light and people, try to build up a better inventory of equipment and studio. I guess I’ll just keep concentrating on whoever is in front of my camera right now (obviously that’s no-one at this second coz I’m typing here at my computer but you know what I mean).